Celtic Crochet Soap Sack

The Celtic Crochet Soap Sack is an easy project with a simple but interesting decorative knot at its center. By using the FREE color-coded Celtic Knot diagram included here (for both Right-Handers and Left-Handers) you can quickly put the knot motif together and have your soap sack complete!

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S.A.C.K. – Supporting a Community with Kindness

I was inspired to make this Celtic Crochet Soap Sack after I met Stacy of S.A.C.K – Supporting A Community with Kindness at the Pittsburgh Creative Arts Festival this past August. I love what Stacy has been doing with knitted and crocheted soap sacks – not only has she spread the message of how much the under served in every community needs soap but she’s also inspired countless communities to organize their own soap-sack-making volunteers and hundreds of thousands of donations all around the world! So, as a small part of the international movement, I am offering this pattern for free here and on the www.soapsacks.com website.

Two Versions of the Celtic Crochet Soap Sack

I enjoy creating Celtic Knot designs in which the knot becomes a part of the crochet fabric by adding crochet stitches onto the edges of each knot. This takes a little extra time but I think is so worth the effort. But as I made several of these Celtic Crochet Soap Sacks, I realized that having a simpler version might be nice for those groups or individuals who want to make many very quickly. So, I created 2 versions of this sack. Version 1 has you sewing the knot motif on a very basic sack as an applique. Version 2 has you working stitches around the woven knot and building the sack form from there. Both versions create the Celtic Knots the same way.

Stitches Used in the Celtic Crochet Soap Sack

All of the stitches used in this crochet soap sack are basic crochet stitches: chain, slip stitch, single crochet, and half double crochet. There is one decrease stitch and one “standing” stitch that are both explained below along with links to watch short video tutorials on the techniques. I often use non-traditional stitch loops to work various stitches into so that all the parts of the Celtic Knot and overall design look their best – many of these techniques are optional and not necessary to complete your soap sack. (If some of these techniques are confusing to you, then just work in the regular loops as you are accustomed to! 🙂)

Video Tutorial Available for both versions!

My experience is that most crocheters benefit from having someone show them how to do stitches, patterns and various techniques so I created a step-by-step video tutorial for both versions of this Celtic Crochet Soap Sack! I hope you will find it helpful – there is a list of each section of the project in the video description so feel free to use the list to click ahead in the video to where you need the most help.

Skill Level: Easy

(Version 1 is quicker and easier than Version 2 but both use the same basic stitches)

Measurements:

Finished Sack is approximately 4″ wide x 6″ tall

Completed knot is approximately 2 1/4″ wide x 4″ tall

Supplies:

Click on the supply name to purchase

(Please note this post contains affiliate links which earns this blog a small commission at no extra cost to you – it’s a win-win! Thank you for your support so I can continue to offer free patterns like this one)

3 colors of dishcloth cotton yarn (I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Bright Green, Forest and Ivory) (1 skein of each color)

H/5mm crochet hook

Yarn needle

4 stitch markers

6″ x 6″ corkboard

15 straight sewing pins

Print out of Celtic Knot Diagram – Download the FREE diagram for both Right-Handers and Left-Handers here

Experiment with Color!

The I Love This Cotton yarn comes in so many pretty colors that I just had to make some of the Celtic Crochet Soap Sack in shades of blue. So I picked up the above colors (Royalty, White and Aqua) and made 3 different soap sacks using each color in a different place in the project. What do you think? Which one is your favorite?

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Special Stitches and Abbreviations:

Back bar of the Chain = When looking at the right side of a chain, you see many “V’s” and the chain looks like a braid. Turn the chain over and you see a series of bumps – it is in these bumps that you will work across the chain to produce a cord with even edges along both sides

Click here to watch a short video tutorial on this technique

Sc (single crochet) = Insert hook into stitch, YO, draw up a loop; YO, pull through 2 loops on hook

Sc2tog (single crochet 2 together)= Insert hook into next stitch, YO, draw up a loop; insert hook into next stitch, YO, draw up a loop; YO, pull through all 3 loops on hook

Click here to watch a short video tutorial on this technique

Back Loop Only = Insert hook only into the back loop at the top of the stitch

Click here to watch a short video tutorial of this technique

Hdc (half double crochet) = YO, insert hook into stitch; YO, draw up a loop; YO, pull through all 3 loops on hook

Join with hdc (join with half double crochet) = With slip knot on hook, YO, insert hook into stitch; YO, draw up a loop, YO, pull through all 3 loops on hook (This stitch is also called a “standing half double crochet”)

Click here to watch a short video tutorial on this technique

YO (yarn over)

Hk (hook)

Lp (loop)

Ch (chain)

St (stitch)

Sp (space)

Notes:

First 2 cords are crocheted and then woven into the Celtic Knot using the included diagram

Version 1: The knot is appliqued onto a crocheted rectangle which is assembled into the sack

Version 2: Stitches are added around the completed knot and then more stitches are used to build the sack

Instructions for the Celtic Crochet Soap Sack by Jennifer Ryan:

Special stitches are written in bold and italicized text and defined above

Remember, for both versions of this sack pattern you will make the cords and knot as explained below

Cord – Make 2:

(Cord measurements = ¾” wide and approximately 10” long)

(Instructions are given in a list format so it is easier to keep your place)

With color you would like for center of cords ch 40

Working in the back bar of the ch, sc in 2^nd ch from hk and in each of the next 2 chs;

(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch; (Point A on diagram) – mark ch-2 sp with stitch marker

Sc in each of next 21 chs;

(sc, ch 2, sc) in next ch; (Point B on diagram) – mark ch-2 sp with stitch marker

Sc in each of next 7 chs;

Sc2tog;

Sc in each of next 4 chs. Fasten off with long tail for assembly.

Here are the 2 cords completed – they are shown in 2 different colors to help with the weaving step

Edging:

Working in the back loop only and with contrasting color you would like along edges of cords, join with sl st in 1^st st; sl st in each st across;

At ch-2 sps marked with stitch marker: (sl st in 1^st ch, ch 1, sl st in 2^nd ch);

At end of cord, ch 1, sl st in short end of cord, ch 1;

Now working along other side of cord and continuing to work in the back loop only, sl st in each st across;

**When come to the area that is opposite of the ch-2 sps (points), make sure to sk 1 st “inside” each point;

Fasten off with long tail for assembly.

Here are the supplies needed to weave the knot

Weave Knot:

With yarn needle and yarn tails join cord ends together for one cord

Lay on green path on diagram lining up cord join at green circle and pin in place

Starting at red asterisk on diagram, pin beginning end of 2^nd cord on orange path on diagram;

Follow the arrows and orange path making sure to correctly pass either over or under according to the diagram

Pin crossing at beginning and end of second cord across

Remove from board and sew cord ends together using yarn tails on Wrong Side

Note: If you are making Version 1, then I recommend you sew the cords together on the Wrong Side and close-up the gaps you see at the center (You can see this in the video tutorial here)

If you are making Version 2, I recommend waiting until the end of the project to sew any of the cords together because being able to shift the cords around while adding the edging stitches is helpful (which you won’t be able to do if they are all sewn together)

Version 1 is on the left and Version 2 is on the right

Version 1 – Applique:

Body of Celtic Crochet Soap Sack:

With 3^rd color ch 23

Row 1:

Hdc in 3^rd ch from hk and in each ch across. (21 hdc) Turn.

Row 2:

Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn.

Rows 3-21:

Repeat Row 2 – do not fasten off. Place stitch marker in working loop as work on next step

Attaching Knot:

On Wrong Side of knot sew center gaps closed (if you didn’t do this step earlier)

Pin knot to center of sack body

Using yarn needle and matching yarn tails sew knot to sack body working stitches in between slip stitch edging and center of cord

Finishing Sack:

Fold sack body in half with Right Side facing in

Put hook into working loop held by stitch marker

Ch 1

Sl st both layers together to create a tube – fasten off.

Turn so Right Side facing out and press down layers so Celtic Knot in center

Join with sl st at one corner; ch 1, sc all layers together to close up bottom opening. Fasten off.

Top Edging:

Join with sl st in center back of sack at top edge; ch 1, work sc evenly spaced around – do not join. Ch 15, working in the back bar of the chain, sl st in 2^nd ch and in each ch across. Fasten off with long tail for assembly.

With yarn needle and yarn tail sew end of length just made to center back of sack to create the hanging loop – make sure secure

Weave in ends

Version 2 – Celtic Knot Motif Embedded into Rectangle:

Border:

Stitches are worked along the cord edges and in the “valleys” between the cords – each valley is marked with a capital letter on the diagram

Round 1:

Refer to the Celtic Knot diagram as you work Round 1 to understand placement of stitches

Here you see 3 white arrows pointing to the loops behind the back loop of the slip stitch edging

**Remember, you can see how this round is done inside the video tutorial here**

Working in the loop behind the back loop (of the sl st edging) and with contrasting color, join with hdc at Point C; [hdc in next st; sc in each of next 3 sts;

(sc, ch 1, sc) in next corner (Point D – Point A on repeat) – mark ch-1 sp with stitch marker;

Sc in each of next 3 sts;

Hdc in next st;

Hdc in next valley (Point E – Point H on repeat);

Hdc in next st;

Sc in each of next 3 sts;

(sc, ch 1, sc) in next corner (Point B – Point I on repeat) – mark ch-1 sp with stitch marker;

Sc in each of next 3 sts;

Hdc in next st;

Hdc in next valley (Point F – Point J on repeat);

Hdc in next st;

Sc in each of next 3 sts;

Hdc in next st;

Hdc in next valley (Point G)]

Repeat [ to ] progressing past points A, H, I and J;

Instead of working the last hdc, join with sl st to top of starting hdc. (56 sts and 4 ch-1 sps at corners)

Here you can see Round 2 of the border completed along with the first row of the Back Length

Round 2:

Ch 2, working through both loops of each st, hdc in each st around;

Work (hdc, ch 1, hdc) in each ch-1 sp at the corners (marked with st markers); Fasten off.

Back Length:

Row 1:

Working in the back loop and back bar, join with sl st in 1^st hdc of a long side;

Ch 2, hdc in each st across; hdc in next ch-1 sp; Turn. (20 hdc)

Row 2:

Ch 2, hdc in each st across. Turn.

Rows 3-11:

Repeat Row 2  – Do not fasten off.

Finishing and Assembly:

Turn so Right Side facing in and fold project so last row of Back Length meets up with other side of rectangle

Sl st both layers together making sure to work through both loops of the layer closest to you and through the back bar and front loop of the layer farthest from you – Do not fasten off.

Turn project so Right Side facing out

Rotate “tube” and press flat so bottom opening lines up and Celtic Knot is facing up;

Working through all loops, sc bottom opening together. Fasten off.

Top Edging:

Round 1:

Join with sl st in center top back of sack;

Ch 2, hdc in each st around;

When working along front above Celtic Knot, make sure to work in the back loop and back bar; sl st to top of starting ch-2.

Round 2:

Ch 3, (sk next st, hdc in next st, ch 1) around ending with sl st to 2^nd ch of starting ch-3.

(This creates the openings for the drawstring closure)

Round 3:

Ch 1, sc in each st around – do not join. Ch 15, working in the back bar of the chain, sl st in 2^nd ch and in each ch across. Fasten off with long tail.

With needle and yarn tail sew hanger end to center of sack

Weave in ends

Closure Tie:

Ch 45

Fasten off.

Tie overhand knots at both ends of length

Thread through Round 2 of Top Edging

Here you can see the gap on the left (as pointed to by the white arrow) and the gap on the right is being sewn up with white yarn and the yarn needle

Turn sack so Wrong Side out

Using yarn tails and needle sew center of knot so gaps closed

Weave in ends – can secure other cords at this time

Your Celtic Crochet Soap Sack is Complete!

Your Celtic Crochet Soap Sack is complete! I hope you enjoyed making this project and found these instructions easy to understand. I loved working on these soap sacks and had fun experimenting with different colors. Which colors did you decide to use?

Please send along a photo of your soap sack or tag me on Instagram – @celticknotcrochet – I love to see what you make from my patterns!

Don’t forget to pin the image below so you remember where you found the Celtic Soap Sack pattern! 🙂

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Thank you for stopping by – Happy crocheting!

Jennifer

Copyright – Jennifer E Ryan- www.celticknotcrochet.com- all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher but please do link to this page to share this pattern with others.

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