Have you ever crocheted a shawlette?
A “shawlette” is exactly what it sounds like – a mini-version of a shawl. I love how they are quick to crochet and can be worn different ways.
When I came up with this project idea I started with the beautiful yarn – I loved the colors and the iridescent thread twisted in with the cotton. I had the large scallop edging in mind, too and was looking for a way to use it in a project.
So, I combined the two and tada! . . . the Twilight Shawlette was born!
**UPDATE: If you would like to see how this project went from idea to completion, then click here to read the blog post about this shawlette’s “Design Journey” – I think you’ll be surprised by some of the elements that I was inspired by!
Skill Level: Intermediate
Measurements: 30″ across top edge x 17″ long from top edge to bottom point
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Yarn Bee Sugarwheel Cotton Sparkle (97% cotton/3% Metallic Polyester; 142g/5 oz, 306 m/335 yds)
2 skeins “Twirls at Twilight”
For Wet Blocking: 50 rust-proof straight sewing pins, 2 large towels, blocking board or foam core poster board
Scarf is started in the center and worked out from there for the first half
Then the second half is worked into base of first row of first half
Lastly the edging is worked around the entire shawl
Sl st (slip stitch) = Insert hook into st, YO, pull through stitch and loop on hook
Dc (double crochet) = YO, insert hook into st, YO, draw up a loop, (YO, pull through 2 loops on hook) twice
V-St (V-stitch) = (dc, ch 2, dc) all in st/sp indicated
Sc (single crochet) = Insert hk into st, YO, draw up a lp, YO, pull through 2 lps on hk
Hdc (half double crochet) = YO, insert hook into st, YO, draw up a loop, YO, pull through all 3 loops on hook
4-dc CL (4 double crochet cluster) = (YO, insert hook into st, YO, draw up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops on hook) 4 times; YO, pull through all 5 loops on hook
3-dc CL (3 double crochet cluster) = (YO, insert hook into st, YO, draw up a loop, YO, pull through 2 loops on hook) 3 times; YO, pull through all 4 loops on hook
Ch = chain
RS = Right Side
Sp = space
Hk = hook
Lp = loop
Sk = skip
YO = yarn over
CL = cluster
Special stitches and abbreviations are written in bold and italicized text and defined above
With larger hook ch 51
Row 1 (Wrong Side (for First Half only)): Sl st in 2nd ch from hk; ch 3; [sk next 2 chs, V-st in next ch] across up to last 3 chs; sk next 2 chs; V-st in last ch. Turn. (16 V-sts)
Row 2: Ch 3, dc in ch-2 sp of first V-st; V-st in each sp between all V-sts across up to last V-st; dc in 2nd dc of last V-st. Turn. (15 V-sts)
Row 3: Ch 3, V-st in sp between each V-st across; V-st in sp after last V-st; dc in turning ch. Turn. (15 V-sts)
Rows 4 – 27: Repeat Rows 2 & 3 (At end of Row 25, will have 3 V-sts)
Row 28: Ch 3; V-st in sp before 1st V-st; (V-st in next sp between V-sts) 2 times; dc in ch-2 sp of last V-st; dc in turning chain. Turn. (3 V-sts)
Rows 29 to 40: Repeat Row 28
Row 41: Ch 3; (V-st in sp between next V-sts) 2 times; V-st in sp after last V-st; dc in turning chain. Turn. (3 V-sts)
Row 42: Repeat Row 2 (2 V-sts)
Row 43: Row 3 (2 V-sts)
Row 44: Row 2 (1 V-st)
Row 45: Ch 3, V-st in sp after 1st V-st; dc in turning chain. Fasten off. (1 V-st)
With Wrong Side of Row 1 (of 1st half) facing, join with sl st in base of first sl st on First Half (This is Point E – see Diagram below)
Row 1(Right Side): Ch 3; V-st in the base of each V-st along Row 1 of First Half. Turn. (16 V-sts)
Work remaining Second Half as for First Half for Rows 2 -45. Do not fasten off.
(Will end this half with Right Side facing at Point A)
Round 1: Ch 3; Working down along Side B (see Diagram below), (sc in base of next st, ch 2) across to Point C; sc in 1st st at Point C; (ch 2, sc in base of next st) along Side D to next Point (E) ending with a sc in Point E; (ch 2, sc in base of next st) along Side F ending with a sl st in 1st sc of round at Point A. Fasten off.
(47 ch-2 sps along Sides D & F)
**Note: The first round of the edging will now be called the “base” – this framework of ch-2 sps and scs creates a structure to work the large scallops into. The scallops are made by turning your work often and joining stitches to the “base” **
Round 2: Now using smaller hook and with Wrong Side facing, join with sl st in 4th ch-2 sp from Point C; You will be working along Side D
*Ch 5, sl st in next ch-2 sp; ch 2, sl st in next sc on base; Turn.
14 hdc in ch-5 sp just made; sl st in next sc on base, ch 2, sl st in next ch-2 sp; Turn.[Ch 2, sk next 2 hdcs, hdc in next sp (bet sts)] across next 14 hdcs; ch 2, sl st in next ch-2 sp on base, ch 2, sl st in next sc on base. Turn.(7 ch-2 sps)
(Ch 3, 4dc-CL in next ch-2 sp) across in each of next ch-2 sps; ch 3, sl st in next sc on base; sl st in next 10 sts on base; sl st around same ch-2 sp;*
Repeat from * to * along Side D up to last 2 ch-2 sps before Point E;
Sl st in each of the next 7 sts; Repeat * to * one time (creating one scallop edging at Point E)
Sl st in each of the next 7 sts;
Repeat * to * along the rest of Side F up to point A
Total Scallops on each side: 9
From Point A to Point C:
(Ch 3, 3dc-CL in same st, sl st in next sc) across ending with sl st in 1st cluster st (of first scallop). (93 3dc-cluster sts across Side B)
Round 3: *[(Sc, 3 hdc, sc) in next ch-3 sp; sl st in next CL] 6 times; [(sc, 3 hdc) in next 2 ch-3 sps] 2 times*; Repeat * to * along Sides D & F stopping after last scallop and working a sl st in base of 1st 3dc-CL st at Point A.
Wet shawl with cold water so soaked through
Roll shawl in a clean towel to remove excess water
Place a new dry towel on the blocking board
Lay out shawl on towel and pin edges in place so stitches are pulled open and scallop edging lays flat
Let dry completely (overnight)
Remove from board and weave in all ends
Now your Twilight Shawlette is complete!
Will you wear it over your shoulders and tied in front or around your neck like a scarf?
I hope you enjoyed crocheting this project – Please send along a photo or tag me on Instagram (@celticknotcrochet) or use #celticknotcrochet. I love to see your projects!
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